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Message board > Care & maintenance > Rubber Window Seals

Message 22 of 22
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Thursday 22 April 2021

* Completed replacement cabin window rubbers, filler strip and acrylic panels.

Couple of tools needed to make things easier; glazing tool, cutting tool and plenty of patience. A bit tricky at first but you soon get the hang of it.

Some tips:
1) Placing window rubbers in tub of warm water beforehand makes it more pliable and easier to fit.
2) Rubber joint at top in centre. I found it easier to fit from cabin side as more room. Once fully knocked into place cut joint about 5mm longer.
3) Run finger along inside of gazing channel with washing up liquid before fitting acrylic window to make easier.
4) Use glazing tool for filler stip with joint to bottom. Add 5mm approx before joining as it shrinks back after fitting.

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Message 21 of 22
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Sunday 18 April 2021

Re message 19. Wrong post ! I don't know how to delete it ...

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Message 20 of 22
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Sunday 18 April 2021

Thanks Kenny,
that diagram helps.
Were leaving the windows now and will do them when we repce the headlining .

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Message 19 of 22
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Sunday 18 April 2021

Thanks Rob,
I'll check the twist I think there is a lever that was sticking out and preventing us doing this.

I haven't checked my new aux yet !! I'll get on that.

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Message 18 of 22
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Saturday 10 April 2021

* Window rubber section WR1513 dimensions. Would always measure own cabin GRP, acrylic thickness matches.

Not replacing wheelhouse window seals - would imagine rubber section would be different as glazed windows rather than acrylic.

Kenny

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Message 17 of 22
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Saturday 10 April 2021

* Jonathan,
Made a start on cabin windows.

Ordered 7mtrs WR1513 rubber seal and white filler strip FS74 for three windows.

Cabin GRP/acrylic panel dimensions are same as you said:
GRP - 5mm
Acrylic panel - 4mm

Also ordered cutting tool and clear sealant from Seals Direct.
Cheers,
Kenny

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Message 16 of 22
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Wednesday 24 March 2021

Thank you Jonathan
Exactly what I needed :)

One of the chaps who does boat repairs and small jobs in our marina said he won't touch them, too fiddly!

Caroline

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Message 15 of 22
Posted by member Jonathan watts on Wednesday 24 March 2021

Hi Caroline
I replaced the cabin window seals on my 1989 Pilot last September. I’ve looked at the invoice and I used 7 metres of WR1513 and filler FS74. I got the glazing tool as well.
I must admit it was a bit of a struggle! Maybe I should have read this post first and warmed the rubbers up.
Cheers
Jonathan

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Message 14 of 22
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Wednesday 24 March 2021

Hello
We are just about to replace our leaking seals in our cabin. Taking advice from this thread, I'm assuming the window is 5mm and I will get an additional 45mm length, buy 'the fitting tool' and warm them up prior to fitting, thanks Simon Papendick.
I have had a look on the seals direct website but I'm not sure what to order.. there seems to be such a choice. Do any of you have a list?
Dummy guide for buying seals

I don't want to be a numpty and contact seals direct and say I have a Hardy 20 boat .. what do I need? Or do I?

Caroline & Lorraine

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Message 13 of 22
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Sunday 23 February 2020

Robert,
I used glazing tool which makes fitting filler insert strip much easier - this locks in window/GRP.

Think window rubber channel is 5mm for acrylic window and 3mm for GRP. Better to check your existing rubber with Seals Direct website as they have dimensions.

Fitting video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuIRUaUrVFI

www.sealsdirect.co.uk
sales@sealsplusdirect.co.uk
01425 617722. International +44 1425 617722
Seals + Direct Ltd, Unit 6, Milton Business Centre,Wick Drive,New Milton, Hants. BH25 6RH. UK.

Good luck,

Kenny

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Message 12 of 22
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Friday 21 February 2020

Hi Robert,
Seals direct are the company to go to as this is where I go to for the window rubber when I have done window replacement jobs. The cost is reasonable as well.
Regards
Simon Papendick

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Message 11 of 22
Posted by member Robert sneddon on Friday 21 February 2020

Thank you Simon
I was not aware the rubber was offset so a point taken when purchasing.
I’m hoping to obtain the rubbers fairly locally. Any problems I will give you a call.

Kind regards
Robert

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Message 10 of 22
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Friday 21 February 2020

Hi Robert

When your boat was build we used a thickness cutter to get the window edge the same thickness all the way around windows. it was set at 5 mm. Just remember that the rubber profile is offset not the in line profile. As the window glass is larger than the window hole in the superstructure. When you replace them they are sealed with a non curing sealant as well. The joint in the rubber is at the bottom along the longest run on the cabin windows and the insert is at the top in the middle of the longest run. Remember that the rubber as to be longer than the length around the window by about 45 mm to ensure in goes into the curves otherwise you end up with the rubber being too short and having to start again. A trick we used when building the boats was to warm the rubber up a little in some warm water as it was easier to put in.
If you have any questions you can contact me on my works phone 07585506960.

Regards

Simon Papendick
Former Hardy Marine employee 1983 --1990

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Message 9 of 22
Posted by member Robert sneddon on Friday 21 February 2020

Hi all.
Going to replace the window rubbers on my 1986 family Pilot. I know the windows are 5mm but can anyone tell me the thickness of the fibreglass. I just want to have everything to hand so that it’s window out, window in, when I get a decent days weather prior to relaunching for the new season.

Kind regards
Robert

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Message 8 of 22
Posted by member Roy Procter on Thursday 3 January 2013

I note various comments concerning window seals for a Pilot 20. I also note that www.sealsdirect.co.uk are a source of supply and have a vast selection of seals. In 1997 Ian Bradshaw reported that he had paid for a new set of dies as a special moulding was required that was not a stock size. What I really want to know is the reference number for the appropriate seal. My boat is a 1994 Family Pilot. Any useful info to cure a small leak in one corner, at least that it where it appears inside! would be appreciated. Roy Procter.

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Message 7 of 22
Posted by member Dave Goad on Wednesday 29 April 2009

Thanks Roger. Got a few jobs ahead of me now to restore 'Tug' to her former glory, but all cosmetic. Looking forward to our first season with her. Hopefully starting off with a trip to Weymouth on Sunday.

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Message 6 of 22
Posted by member Roger Piper on Tuesday 28 April 2009

Your best course of action is to find a localwindscreen/glass specialist and ask him to quote for the job.When you take the existing perspex in, it's normally about 5 or 6 mm, he will copy them and suply the correct length/type of seal and sealant. Make sure you mark which windows they came out of as the sizes vary slightly. You should be able to borrow or hire the tool to refit the windows, see my comments in previous above. Good luck, be patient, do it in warm weather.

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Message 5 of 22
Posted by member Dave Goad on Monday 27 April 2009

I have recently purchased a 1994 Hardy Pilot 20. I need to replace the window seals around the three cabin windows. Does anybody know the size I require..?? I was told at the BoatJumble that I need to know the thickness of the perspex window and the thickness of the GRP it is fitted into.??? Any help would be appreciated. Dave

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Message 4 of 22
Posted by member Leroy Beresford on Wednesday 13 August 2008

was lucky to pick up a Hardy 20 on the second hand market,is their any way that i can find out year of make ?ie,are there any markings or numbers anywhere on the hull?

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Message 3 of 22
Posted by member Roger Piper on Thursday 15 November 2007

Phillip If you raise the edge of the seal you will see blacksealant that Hardy used during the original instalation. It would be difficult to put new sealant in position as well but might be worth trying without taking the windows out. Commercial windscreen sealant is best and souced from the appropriate local stockist. Putting in a new seal does require a special tool but can be bought/borrowed from your windscreen shop. Use paraffin or washin up liquid to refit windows. There is more info on our web pages. Roger Piper

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Message 2 of 22
Posted by member Philip Mckee on Tuesday 13 November 2007

I have just bought an '83 Pilot 20 . Some damp spots below a few of the fixed windows. What is the best solution? New seals or pack existing seals with flexible mastic and refit. If the latter is a special tool required?

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Message 1 of 22
Posted by member Ian C Bradshaw on Tuesday 10 April 2007

Currently refurbishing a Hardy Pilot 20(April 1990) and have recently replaced all the rubber window seals. I obtained the seals from Seals+Direct and had to pay for a new die because of age of boat. So members wishing to do likewise should not need to pay cost of Die. I also have several mtrs of rubber seal leftover if any members wishes same.

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