Message 15 of 15
Posted by member Ian Petrie on Thursday 9 July 2020

Hi. I have purchased recently a Family Pilot 20 where the previous owner had replaced the rope fender but it was sagging on the starboard side. The boat is powered by a 50hp Yamaha Outboard. I hope this advice is helpful to anyone fitting or tensioning the rope fender. I agree, best done with the boat out of the water.
1. Once you are satisfied with the cord attachment at the prow, work your way along the boat, shuffling the fender into place working towards where you have already loose fitted to the retaining hasps at the stern.
2. Make sure the cable eyelet is vertical.
3. Use a ratchet strap to tension the cable, all the time working the fender along to boat to the stern. It is very important that you tension the cable square and level at the transom, otherwise the rope just sags again.
Many would say attach the strap between the two end eyelets of the fender. But what, if as on my boat, the outboard is in the way?
4. Make a double loop of chord long enough to go through the fender retaining hasp on the stern. Loop it through the fender eyelet, then the stern hasp. This method gives you enough room to tie the fender off on the hasp without the strap being in the way.
5. The slack was on the starboard side so, to avoid damaging and interference from the outboard, I removed the motor cowl.
I attached one end of the ratchet strap upwards and diagonally to the rear port mooring cleat and the other to the doubled chord loop I had threaded through the cable eyelet then the fender hasp on the transom, thus clearing the outboard.
6. Keep moving the fender along the boat towards the stern as you tension.
If you are fitting a new rope, possibly best to keep swapping sides with the ratchet strap to ensure even tension around the whole boat.
Worked a treat. Hope this is useful.

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Message 13 of 15
Posted by member Richard Moynan on Thursday 4 June 2020

The rope has a plastic covered wire core of which the length is specific to your model of boat. The rope os wound round this and bound at each end and this binding is shrouded with leather neatly. When a rope is replaced the rope specialist unwind a length of rope and rewind it round your core wire centre. The wire is not visible, but is important because it give constant length to the rope because the natural fibres shrink and expand with wet and dry conditions. Tensioning the wire gives consistent tautness and keeps the rope in place.
The rope is fitted in a "groove" round the hull, suspended for the first third from the bow by small eyelets with lacing round the wire ( which gives invisible look) and for the remaining two thirds in a small hardwood "shelf" and is the tied at the stern onto an eye on each side. It sounds complicated but is simple and effective. It will all become clear when you see your boat ! It could be replaced afloat, but would be ten times easier on dry land.

Hope tis is helpful

regards Richard

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Message 11 of 15
Posted by member Richard Moynan on Tuesday 2 June 2020

Keith
Go to " Steve Brecken's Hydrofin Dual Rudder Kit" Post I made an error which the webmaster will rectify

regards Richard

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Message 9 of 15
Posted by member julian knapp on Tuesday 2 June 2020

Thanks for this - learning a lot already - I didn't know/think it had a wire core! Logical now I know.
Coir it is then
J

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Message 7 of 15
Posted by member Richard Moynan on Monday 1 June 2020

Michael

We have just had our rope renewed using our old sound wire. It was done in Coir which we were advised was as good as synthetic for length of life. They also said it was easier to use the Coir because the synthetic did not always rewind onto the wire core as well. It was done by Westwood Rope and Wire of Exeter and cost a fraction of the price in these posts. I attach a photo of the result, we threaded through entire black drain pipe at the point were the deck drains are before attaching and stretched using a ratchet strap attached to some thick agricultural twine fixed at the rope end of the lacing eyes and then laced and got a really snug fitting rope. We are very pleased with the result and I attach a photo for you to judge for yourself.

regards

Richard Moynan

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Message 5 of 15
Posted by member Julian Knapp on Saturday 30 May 2020

Thanks I'll wait to see what's there (boat delivery scheduled for the 12th June) and then review - so this would be trad rope not synthetic?
J

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Message 3 of 15
Posted by member Julian Knapp on Thursday 28 May 2020

What did you end up doing as I will need a new one for my 25 - cost??

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Message 1 of 15
Posted by member Michael Williams on Thursday 24 October 2019

We are considering getting a synthetic rope fender for our 1992 Hardy 25 from Chatham Rope Makers. Has anyone any experience of synthetic rope fenders in terms of durability & suitability, as opposed to the normal Coir??

Michael Williams
Puffin of Rame

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