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Message board > Care & maintenance > Hardy Pilot 20 SE Wooden Fender Supports

Message 14 of 14
Posted by member Neil Townend on Friday 1 July 2022

I found that the rope supports were most prone to rot in the area of the scuppers. Not wanting the mess of removing the interior fit out fabric I decided just to cut out the decayed length around the scuppers. The decayed wood easily came away from the protruding screws. I then bought some aluminium angle and drilled holes to coincide with the screws. Silicone was applied to the screws where they protruded. The angle then was fitted over the screws and secured with nuts! The aluminium angle was not taken directly up to the timber moulding so as to facilitate drainage as someone has previously mentioned. Finished job cost pennies looks ok as you cannot see the aluminium angle and it should last many years. I can’t help but think that the original design was not brilliant but that’s the benefit of hindsight.

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Message 13 of 14
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Thursday 30 June 2022

Hi Alasdair
I’m not sure about the rope support rails but I bought my new rope from Rope Services at Houghton-Le-Spring. 01915842709.
I had a natural rope fitted a few years ago but this time I fitted a synthetic. In my opinion you wouldn’t know the difference and looks great.
I didn’t need the wire rope but said they could supply one if needed.
Delivery was good and I felt their price was competitive.
Hope this helps.

Regards
Robert

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Message 12 of 14
Posted by member Alasdair MacLean on Wednesday 29 June 2022

I am about to refurbish a Hardy Pilot 20 and read some of the comments re wooden support sizes.
From a 'good' fit point of view a 1" support would be better, however the 1 1/2" would be more robust.
Not sure what the original size was but i suspect 1 1/2"
For the rope I think 31/4" (83mm) is the right size ???
What is the best place to get the rope and wire ??
Regards
Alasdair MacLean

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Message 11 of 14
Posted by member Regent on Friday 6 September 2019

If anyone gets the chance I'd be interested in knowing the dimensions of the wooden fender supports on their Hardy Pilot assuming they are believed to be either the originals or replacements to the dimensions of the originals. As previously posted, I was advised by Windboats that they were 14' long and 1.5" * 1.5" * 2.12 (the hypotenuse). Mine are actually 12' 9" and 1" * 1" * 1.41 (hypotenuse). Another member has contacted me with 12' and 1" * 1" on their 1999 Pilot SE and it is believed they might also be original. I plan to contact Windboats again asking for clarification and will let people know what they say. Kind regards, Martin.

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Message 10 of 14
Posted by member Regent on Saturday 17 August 2019

I thought I'd post a brief update on where I'm at. A local woodworking shop can make me a pair of dark red meranti supports finished to the original dimensions specified by Hardy (see post of 9/7/19). They have quoted £135 plus VAT for the pair. I do need to double check the lengths because when I measured the ones currently on my boat they came out at 12' 9" not 14'? Has anyone else measured theirs?

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Message 9 of 14
Posted by member Colin on Friday 19 July 2019

There’s a 19mm x 19mm square strip with a rounded edge, it’s solid uPVC that I had in mind. It’s white but it could be painted to match.
Recently I had to make up some grave memorials for my Grandparents graves as the carved wooden ones I made had rotted out at the base again, these were two marble flags bonded together, the top ones engraved.

The high performance polymer adhesive I used was from a cartridge, applied by a cartridge gun, it has 'rubberised' like properties and doubles as a sealer, it’s claimed to bond anything, is waterproof, can even be applied to wet surfaces and achieves a tenacious bond. It’s also available in various colours including white and black and I believe clear. (and it’s semi flexible too)
The test pieces I bonded together are still well stuck, there are a myriad of boating applications where it could be used – even just as a sealer, the joint under the top moulding where it bonds to the hull may be a good place as well as around the cabin roof/wheelhouse joints etc?
Shorter strips could be bonded but would need temporary taping to the hull until the bonding process was complete to prevent sliding etc.
Maybe not traditional but would keep my boat looking better for longer, a few nice Hardy’s I have seen have had poor rope fenders/wood supports which let them down a little and for me, there’s nothing looks sadder than a Hardy with the rope fender missing!

Atb Col. (& Angie)

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Message 8 of 14
Posted by member Colin on Friday 19 July 2019

Wood strakes/supports for rope fenders
Hi Guys, hope you don't mind me making an alternative suggestion, if a sample was taken to any local wood machinist, they could probably replicate it if they had meranti available.
I looked at this with a Hardy I was thinking of purchasing as the rope fender and the wood supports needed replacing. (Rotted)
I thought about replacing the rope with a synthetic type that wouldn't rot/deteriorate as quickly as the originals, also, I thought about replacing the support strips with uPVC trims that are used for uPVC doors and windows - these can be purchased from eBay etc in different profiles and sizes. (they could be bonded on?)
Not for the Hardy traditionalist maybe but once fitted, they would last longer and need less maintenance?
I think the shorter lengths idea with the gaps is a good one as water from the scuppers can fall onto these promoting the rotting process
Just a thought, hope I haven't spoken out of line with the traditionalists.

Atb Col. (& Angie)

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Message 7 of 14
Posted by member Hardy Editor on Sunday 14 July 2019

Ahoy David,
I also had the forward section on my starboard strake come away as a result of a flood which knocked the boats in my marina about when they were on the hard on their trailers !! I actually managed to screw and glue the section back on with a powerful silicone, tape it down till it went off and then seal it, and to this day it has held.
On another note though and with regards to my previous post, I rummaged about in some old files and located the business card from the chap at Wilks who I originally spoke to at a boat show a while back. Although sent some samples, I never did get back to them and at that time they were promoting something I think that was called the Traditional Range, which was an alternative to wooden rubbing strakes. I do remember it did look quite like the real thing. Provided this chap still works for them, his name was Jeff Webber and he was very interested in our club, and our traditional rope fendering and strakes, and also the issues I was having with both. Please remember this card was from a while back, so he may not still be working for them, his email was jeff@wilks.co.uk - failing that their website is www.wilks.co.uk - specialists on all marine fendering. I would still like to write a piece for the magazine about this topic, so if you or anyone else has the time to do some research, please let me know how you get on. All the best,
Marie.

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Message 6 of 14
Posted by member DAVID EVANS on Sunday 14 July 2019

I removed the fender from my Hardy 20' fishing last winter. The strakes needed replacing. I approached three machinists/ wood workers, but was met with a distinct lack of enthusiasm to produce new strakes. I did contemplate fitting a number of shorter lengths of strake with a gap between each one. This could be done utilising the existing holes in the hull. Advantage would be better draining from the top of each section of strake. One of the original strakes had sprung at the fwd end and broken off, obviously due to curve of the hull. Shorter lengths would overcome this. As it happened I filled the screwholes, polished the hull and did'nt replace the fender. Just a thought !

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Message 5 of 14
Posted by member Hardy Editor on Wednesday 10 July 2019

Ahoy Martin,

A very useful post this one, so thanks to both you and also Simon P, who is a well of knowledge having worked with John Hardy for many years building the older Hardys - my own included.
I've had my Family Pilot for 10 years now and every time I remove the rope fender and work on the hull, I inspect that strake, which has been deteriorating gradually more and more. I tend to patch it up, sand it and varnish it and reassemble everything and hope for the best for another season ! The nearest I came to actually addressing the situation was a lengthy discussion with the Wilks team at one of the boat shows a while back and I did get as far as getting hold of some samples, but that was as far as I got. I will be very interested in the outcome of your own findings, Martin.
Many thanks,
Regards,
Marie

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Message 4 of 14
Posted by member Regent on Tuesday 9 July 2019

Dear All,
First many thanks to Simon for prompt and extremely helpful reply.
I have also been informed that the wooden supports were made of dark red maranti and also that they are 14ft long, 1.5" by 1.5" cut diagonally across and either end cut to 45 degrees.
I am currently investigating who will fit for me. Also, in my case, it might only be a small section I need to repair. I will post further updates in due course and can be contacted directly by email given on Social Member List.
Kind regards,
Martin.

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Message 3 of 14
Posted by member Robert snedd9n on Monday 8 July 2019

Hi Martin
Renewed my rope a few years ago but I think it’s going to need renewed again. Also the wood supports will get changed out as well this time.
I hope to do this during this winters lay up after my season has ended.
Please keep us posted as to who you decide to supply you wooden supports as both myself and I’m sure others will be very interested.
Kind regards
Robert.

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Message 2 of 14
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Tuesday 2 July 2019

Dear Martin ,
The rope fender supports you are talking about are screwed on to the hull from the inside of the boat and are fitted before the hull and deck moulding are fixed the wooden fender together. In order to remove wooden fender support you have to remove the upper part of the carpet hull linings to expose the screws which fix the wooden support rail. Once you have exposed the screws along the boat from along the hull and unscrewed the screws it should come away from the hull. It is then you can get a new length of hardwood machined up and prefix the new length of wooden support rail to the hull remembering to put sealant round the screws where they come through the hull to stop any leaks through the fixings. Then refit the rope fender after you have teak oiled the rail a few times to seal the wood and stop it from rotting in the future.

Regards
Simon Papendick

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Message 1 of 14
Posted by member Regent on Monday 1 July 2019

I'm new to the HOC just having bought a Hardy Pilot 20 SE ("REGENT"). I am in the process of planning to replace the rope fender and have read a lot of the very useful messages about this. I had a call this morning from someone doing the hull polishing saying that parts of the wooden fender supports are rotting. I have arranged for someone to go and take a look to see the extent of this as I live a couple of hours away. My question is: has anyone encountered this problem before? If so any advice and tips about construction/repair/replacement would be useful. I want to ensure that I get the right people doing the the work properly. Many thanks in advance for any advice. Martin Backhouse. PS: My email is available on the Social Member List.

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