Message 16 of 17
Posted by member Martin on Thursday 11 March 2021

Hi Clive,
Many thanks for the information and the layout you have is in line with my thinking, I already have approval from my partner based on your photo. What a lovely set of pictures of Adele on the water too.
Here's to the hope of a good summer on the water.
Martin (Bosun Nirvana)

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Message 14 of 17
Posted by member Martin on Tuesday 9 March 2021

Hello Clive ffitch, I am looking to modify my heads inatallation as the height and positioning of the factory installation is beyond our age/flexibility and I would appreciate any information still available about Adele's installation. I think the web link is unsurprisingly out of date.
Hope you can help,
Martin Nickolls

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Message 12 of 17
Posted by member jim harwood on Sunday 11 February 2018

Old section removed boats out for a while so no rush to get done happy I have got time to fix and will make sure it’s well reinforced.

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Message 10 of 17
Posted by member Simon Kidd on Sunday 11 February 2018

Hi Jim.

Pretty much as you said - carefully cut back internally to expose the rotted and wet ply - it may or may not extend far. Replace with new marine ply and overlaminate - however, the Plywood grid is structural - it's used to stiffen the hull (needed due to the "Spray Layup" moulding technique), and this part of the hull takes a real beating when running fast at sea, so a strong repair is essential - especially if the rotted area is large. I'd suggest that once the new ply in laminated in, the area, at the very least is heavily re-laminated over a wide area using some woven rovings and chopped mat - probably four layers minimum. It's important the stiffened area is wide - i.e well past the rotted plywood, to ease the loads on the butt joints between old and new plywood. It is also essential that the once the old material is cut back the whole area, including the existing plywood is dry, otherwise, the resin will not adhere well. Due to the area being strength critical, the use of marine grade epoxy for the repair would be preferable.

The above might seem overkill, but best to be on the safe side.

It does have to be said - that is the original fitter put the through hulls just through the FRP skin (i..e a few inches away from their current location, then this wouldn't be a problem - always best to leave cored laminates sealed and undisturbed. It might be worth checking the intake through hull for the same problem.

I hope the above helps, If in doubt, give me a call, details in front of Magazine.

Simon

Tech Sec.

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Message 8 of 17
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Sunday 11 February 2018

Godfrey,

Photo attached of sea toilet thru' hull plumbing installation on HP 20.

Photo - taken looking down at starboard seating locker.
Waste pipe 45mm O/D. Gate valve 47mm dia (threaded part thru hull).
Water intake pipe - 25mm O/D. Gate valve 25mm dia (threaded part thru hull).

Dimensions from inside face of locker from right (toilet panel) to left:
190mm to centre of waste.
500mm centre to centre waste/water intake. Should be able to make this out on tape measure.

Dimensions up from locker side going starboard:
Waste pipe centre 230mm.
Water intake centre 190mm.

I beleive ball valves are the way to go rather than using old school gates valves.

Regards,
Kenny

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Message 6 of 17
Posted by member jim harwood on Thursday 8 February 2018

Just removed hull skin fitting from sea toilet now that we’re out of the water as had noticed the hull flexing.
Lots of rotten wet wood due to it not being sealed correctly by whoever fitted it. Any ideas on best repair. I’m thinking of cutting back the internal skin to expose the wood that’s wet to dig it out and replace with marine ply then glass back in.

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Message 4 of 17
Posted by member Clive ffitch on Tuesday 19 December 2017

Hi Godfrey, We fitted a sea toilet into Adele a few seasons back, and have been very happy with the installation, despite the somewhat, er, bijou arrangements that it entails. You can see how we carried out the job on Adele's Web page at: http://www.photofilecornwall.co.uk/cornwall-xfiles/motorboating/hardy-family-pilot-adele-mods.htm (you may need to copy and paste link). Most importantly, ensure that you use decent seacocks such as Blake's. Good luck with the job - it's worth it! Clive

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Message 2 of 17
Posted by member Simon Kidd on Wednesday 13 December 2017

Hi Godfrey. The installation would be the same as in the Family Pilot 20 - a Sea Toilet was an option at build. From memory, the toilet inlet and outlet seacocks should be located under the aft end of the starboard berth, with the hoses running through the bulkhead to the toilet. Take some time to position the toilet for Best Comfort and ease of use prior to fitting!! Suitable "loops" should be fitted to bring the inlet and outlet above the water line as is common practice (See instructions as per the toilet manufacturer) - else ensure the sea cocks are only "on" when the loo is in use. Use only the very best quality through hull fittings, valves, hoses and clips. Dezincification resistant (bronze or DZR) through hulls, valves, spigots etc are essential - beware cheap kit made of Brass or "Tonval", also don't use plastic or stainless steel below the waterline - all most unsuitable. The above should all be pretty obvious, but Sea toilets are a common areas of problems in Survey - but a little thought to fittings etc makes lfe much better!! Good luck with it. Simon Tech Sec.

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