Message 11 of 11
Posted by member Simon Kidd on Thursday 31 March 2016

Hi Rob. It's a nightmare sometimes - I work in the business and by dint of my work, many people benefit - including boatyards etc (it's not what my job is about, but it is a by product of our work) and for me to have work done on boat seems as difficult as ever. Good luck with it. Regards Si.

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Message 9 of 11
Posted by member Simon Kidd on Sunday 27 March 2016

Rob. Just make sure you use a proper "Purpose made outboard engine lock" - or however this is worded in your insurance documentation. No matter how many locks you fit - it will not stop someone taking the engine - they may even chain saw the boat to take the engine - I've seen this all too many times. The big issue here is to make sure you comply with your insurance companies requirements to the letter - that way if your engine is taken - then you should be covered without any aurgument.. I find 50% of boats with outboards fitted, either have no locks or home made locks -or padlocks - neither of which tend to comply. On a shocker of a note - I've known a boat afloat with twin engines to have had both taken (both fitted with proper locks) - the boat sank as a result of the holes left in the transom from the mounting bolts. The insurance company paid out and she's back up and running following a complete refit. Best Regards Si.

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Message 7 of 11
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Sunday 21 February 2016

Hi Rob. Good idea to forget the welding option. If you don't want to use a lock with a key have a look at the type of outboard lock which is similar to a locking nut used to secure alloy wheels on a car. There are plenty of suppliers from your local chandler to eBay. They are insurance approved and easy to fit, just make sure it suits the bolt size and threads. Nothing is 100% safe but a good deterrent. Hope this helps Robert.

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Message 5 of 11
Posted by member Peter on Thursday 11 February 2016

Hi Rob, Here is an example of a transom clamp lock. http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/fulton-outboard-motor-lock-1654.html Regards, Peter

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Message 3 of 11
Posted by member hardy editor on Thursday 11 February 2016

Hi chaps, I was the same as Mike inasmuch as I lost my key and had to have the old lock cut off, when I changed my 20HP for a 40HP, but even so, getting a good lock and key from your dealer is the way to go - just look after that key ! Also, I used Smartwater, which is a DNA type forensic traceable liquid, which is registered with the police, and is easy to apply. You can use it on everything including your engine (make sure you put it somewhere on the engine frame itself, other than just the cover, so that it can be found if needed.) They also supply you with a bunch of stickers so that you can make it obvious to the thieves that the product has been used on your boat. Given the choice between your boat and one without the stickers might just make the difference. We were lucky as our marina manager got a special deal because he bought a lot of it, and then it was made available to everyone at our marina at a cheaper rate than normal. It did stop a glut of thefts. Good luck with it all, Marie.

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Message 1 of 11
Posted by member rob mcinnes on Thursday 11 February 2016

As you may have gathered from another thread, I have just ordered a new engine (Mariner 25) for my FP. My main concern now, is keeping ownership of said engine! It will be bolted onto the stern and it has been suggested that the bolts be welded on, but my insurance states that I must have an approved outboard lock. I would therefore be grateful if anybody can suggest a suitable lock for this purpose. I am also purchasing a fabric 'Boat Watch' cover in order that I can remove the cowling when the boat is not in use and store it at home, thus making it a less attractive proposition to any would be new owner.

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