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Message 7 of 7
Posted by member Andy Mcmullan on Saturday 22 March 2008
Andy
They're all excellent tips. Thanks for posting the info. It will come in useful when I do the job.
Cheers
Andy
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Message 6 of 7
Posted by member Andy Wells on Friday 21 March 2008
I have just laboriously sanded down my Pilot 20 to the gel coat then painted her with Coppercoat. It cost £348 with the thinners and some rollers, (4Lts in total).
My advice is not to do it now - it needs to be a minimum of 10 degC and dry for several days, at least 3 in a row. I put mine on and had rain after 24 hrs that promptly washed it all off! Disaster. I got it done eventually, and it looks good, but it would be much easier in a month or two. It's an awful job getting the old off. By the way, when I put the first coat on it goes on like a mist coat of emulsion. I then tried to put it on a bit thicker but it just pulled the thin mist off, as it sticks better to iteslf than it does the boat. So make the first coat just a mist coat, wait an hour or two then do the second coat, which will cover a lot better. The sellers recommend the 3rd and 4th coats are thinned with the thinners they sell to give a better finish. I didn't get to do this, as I was battling 50 mph winds on the last two coats (! this was in the storms last week - God it was awful !).
I used a £20 Screwfix orbital sander to take the old off, disgusting job - don't buy their cheapo 125mm discs, they fly off like frisbees after 1 minutes sanding - buy the dearer Norton ones, they last 10 times as long.
Good luck,
Andy
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Message 5 of 7
Posted by member Ian Martin on Saturday 16 February 2008
Hi Andy
The antifoul I use is Cruiser Uno, from International. It can be picked up at any Chanderly.One coat antifouling formulated for both power and sailing boats (up to 25knots), one seasons antifouling protection from one application and can be immersed the same day. Compatible with most antifouling, no need to be sanded before re-application. Use Thinners No.3. I use approximately 2.75 ltrs or slightly less, the tin you need is a 3 ltr one and usally retails at about £70 - £75, depending on where you by it. Use this link www.yachtpaint.com it will provide you with the expert advice you are looking for.
Regards
Ian
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Message 4 of 7
Posted by member Dominic And Nicola Gribbin on Friday 15 February 2008
Hi
We have used International Interspeed Ultra.
Its extremely tough, not self eroding (important if ever contemplating drying out of course) and in the mid blue colour we feel it sets the Pilot off very well.
Lasts on average 2 years-ish before needing a fresh top coat. Thats one its great advantages as often with self-eroding types you have to start all over again with the time consuming preparation each time. Well worth its slightly higher price tag.
We had Jura Pilot professionally sand blasted back in 2003 (was about £500 with a mobile marine sandblasting firm) to key the gel coat. I then spent two weeks (ouch!) applying anti-osmosis layers, primer and finally Int. Ultra top coats.
D and N.
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Message 3 of 7
Posted by member Damian on Saturday 9 February 2008
Andy,
If you are wanting to bring the Hardy back to the original gel coat be prepared for a 'world of pain'.I did my Hardy 20 in November and it took me 11 hours working at 1.5 hours a day with a 'norvik' type hand scraper. This is despite me being a fit 40 something year old. Do not do more than 1 hour scraping at a time, believe me. It is the hardest thing I have ever done on a boat especially on your back with a mask,googles,overalls,etc.
My boat is 1987 and I think this is the first time the gelcoat has seen daylight in 20 years. The build up of antifoul really is like flint.
I still think it was worth it as I believe shotblasting would be in the region of about £700.
Epoxy is up to yourself but my intention is to just antifoul with two coats of whatever the cheapest swindlery will supply with a power wash halfway through the season and then to let my next of kin scrape in another 20 years or so!
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Message 2 of 7
Posted by member Andy Mcmullan on Saturday 9 February 2008
Damian
I agree. I did my fishing 17 a couple of years ago and scrapped off 14 years of antifouling. It was a grim job. So bad I considered doing one side the following year.
I painted a couple of coats of VC Tar after keying the hull, then antifouled. It was worth doing but a seriously hard job.
Fot my Pilot I may use some antifoul stripper, then after epoxying, will consider some copperbot. I got a quote for about 300 pounds for the copperbot and think it will be worth it in the long run.
Cheers
Andy
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Message 1 of 7
Posted by member Andy Mcmullan on Friday 8 February 2008
Hi
Can anyone recommend an antifouling for the Pilot? I will use the boat in a sea lough and occasionally in fresh water.
On my Fishing 17 I used the eroding type but am not sure if that is the best type for the pilot. On the Fishing 17 it seemed to wear off easily.
My new Pilot seems to have the 'hard' type but I am not sure.
The antifouling looks in good condition and looks like it would do another year. I plan to take the hull back to the gel coat and epoxy the boat but I don't think I can face that job this year.
Cheers
Andy
Also, how much antifouling do I need for one coat?
Cheers
Andy
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