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Message 15 of 15
Posted by member Alan Johnson on Tuesday 16 October 2007
Our Pilot has a DSC radio and a GPS. When the GPS is running the radio stops scanning and locks onto one channel as if it is picking up a signal. I've checked it a few times and it is the GPS which causes the problem. I am assuming the antennas or their cables are running too close to each other but this is only an assumption. Does anyone have any ideas on possible causes.
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Message 14 of 15
Posted by member Kim Maclean on Monday 16 April 2007
Hi, can anyone help me im slightly confused....
I am about to install a split diode as I use two batteries of different amps.
I would also like to re-install my battery swich (1-2-off).
Where im confused is how to wire the alternator to the diode. I am using a newly installed mercury outboard (60hp 4 stroke).
Do i need to install a new wire from alternator to diode and wire the standard wire harness to a battery for the starter etc to draw directly as per standard instilation?
Im assuming that i cant wire the standard wire loom directly to the altenator input on the diode and expect the current to flow back to the engine?
I hope this makes sense to someone who can help.
Many thanks,
Kim MacLean
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Message 13 of 15
Posted by member Kim Maclean on Monday 16 April 2007
Hi, can anyone help me im slightly confused....
I am about to install a split diode as I use two batteries of different amps.
I would also like to re-install my battery swich (1-2-off).
Where im confused is how to wire the alternator to the diode. I am using a newly installed mercury outboard (60hp 4 stroke).
Do i need to install a new wire from alternator to diode and wire the standard wire harness to a battery for the starter etc to draw directly as per standard instilation?
Im assuming that i cant wire the standard wire loom directly to the altenator input on the diode and expect the current to flow back to the engine?
I hope this makes sense to someone who can help.
Many thanks,
Kim MacLean
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Message 12 of 15
Posted by member Peter on Tuesday 2 January 2007
Have 2 batteries in my Hardy ms 20 wired them up left the old isolator switches in 1 year later one of them broke found out when the volt meter on the gps said it wasnt charging by the time l had noticed it the altinator had been fried. the switches if old replace them, cheaper than buying a new altinator hope l save someone else peter carmi anstruther
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Message 11 of 15
Posted by member Marwin In Norway on Saturday 23 July 2005
New battery installation on my Regatta: 60 Ah start battery (Optima) and 65 Ah battery for aux. use. The latter was too small! Got a 60 and a 90 Ah batteries, placed forward (also as a good ballast in the bow) Connected in paralell with the old 65 Ah with big cables Also monted a simple braker on each of the batteries, so no one is connected together when the boat is not in use. Now I have Ah inought for longer trips.
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Message 10 of 15
Posted by member Alan Andrews on Sunday 20 February 2005
I wish to fit a refrigerator in my 1999 Family Pilot. Any advice on sources and suitabilty would be appreciated. I intend to wire the boat for shore power, so will have available 230v,( when in a marina) 12v, or gas to power the fridge.
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Message 9 of 15
Posted by member Ian Martin on Friday 29 October 2004
Hi Charlie
Thanks for input, this is getting technical now. Would you have any photos of the installation/wiring etc. I don't know whether I can put my email address on the site, or possibly John could provide it. Regards Ian
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Message 8 of 15
Posted by member Charlie Stitt on Thursday 28 October 2004
Hello Ian, I would advise you to keep your engine battery and your auxilary battery seperate and charge them through a split diode, one red wire comes from your alternater to the split diode. You keep one battery wired direct to your engine starter charged with one red wire from split diode, and one battery with feed wire to bus bar for your lights, fridge, radio, bilge pump etc, and again this is charged with one red wire from split diode. The black negitive wire is common to both batteries.I have just fitted a new engine in my Hardy 25 and re-newed all my electrics. I fitted one heavy duty engine battery and a bank of two heavy duty batteries for domestic and nav use, I got the split diode from Force 4 chandlery £26.94.By using a split diode and wiring your batteries seperate, you will always have a fully charged battery to start your engine even if you run the other battery flat with a fridge etc.
Have fun
Charlie.
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Message 7 of 15
Posted by member Ian Martin on Saturday 23 October 2004
Second battery to be installed within the next month or so.
Many Thanks Ian
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Message 6 of 15
Posted by member Dominic And Nicola Gribbin on Friday 22 October 2004
No effect on instruments when switched to 'both'. Still remains 12 volts, you simply have a greater 'pool' of 12 volts to draw on, than one battery alone.
Good luck with the installation
Dom.
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Message 5 of 15
Posted by member Dominic And Nicola Gribbin on Thursday 21 October 2004
Hi Ian
The correct wiring pattern is self evident as soon as you look at the back of the isolator unit. Both batteries are wired + and -independantly to the point they converge on the isolator, which in turn is connected to the ignition/helm cable.
It is clearly very important to properly attach + with - terminals, so as it is dificult via an e-mail to help precisely (and isolator units wiring vary too), if you know someone I suggest you have them give the job the once over. Whatever, don't mix different polarities together!
We wired our isolator so that by strictly turning it only clockwise, we can select 1:both:2 whilst underway and in that order. Never turn to 'off' whilst underway/engine on. This can badly damage the engines alternator. Most isolators must be turned off at the helm ignition switch first, then finally 'off' at battery isolator.
The isolator will allow you by choosing 1:both:2, to have the option of charging only battery 1 whilst on '1' and battery 2 whilst on '2'. In 'both' mode, both batts will be charged but note, by defintion you will roughly halve the charging current to both batteries 1 and 2 and thus double the charging time. Most standard 12v batteries take approx
2 hours of engine running time to charge from flat. Again double this if charging both batteries from flat in 'both' mode.
It really is a lot simpler than this probably all sounds and the piece of mind of having ample battery power to draw on if you are doing a longer trip and using lights etc is well worth it. If you know say, battery 1 is a bit low, It feels great to know you can by selecting 'both', couple all the batteries together and be confident there will be enough juice to start the engine!
Hope that helps
Dom.
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Message 4 of 15
Posted by member Ian Martin on Thursday 21 October 2004
Hi Dom
Thanks for the prompt reply, your explanation of the wiring process is fine and easy to follow. I just have one other query, when you switch the isolator to both batteries how does it effect the electronics, lights etc. considering they are only 12v? Does having both batteries on together not generate 24v? I told you I wasn't great with electrics.
Regards
Ian
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Message 3 of 15
Posted by member Dominic And Nicola Gribbin on Wednesday 20 October 2004
Hi Ian.
We fitted an additional battery to our Pilot. In the starboard side floor locker we have one 105ah auxillary deep cycle battery, in the port we have one 85ah high power starter battery. Seems to balance off weight-wise nicely.
These were connected to a 1:2:both battery switch/isolator. The extra cable lengths neccessary were run through the fuel bunker. There are breather/access holes available on both inside walls of the port/starboard floor lockers to facilitate this. No need to drill holes.
All very straightforward and the combination provides enough power and spare capacity to run a compressor driven refigerator and all instruments with no problem.
With the engine off, say at anchor, for long periods of time, we found with normal use of cabin lights, anchor light, depth alarm and refrigerator we could expect 5 days use before we went sub 11.3 volts.
Easily enough for most passages.
Our opinion is, don't bother buying expensive bespoke 'marine' batteries. They are a rip off as exactly the same product can be bought at half the price from a general 12v battery store. Boat batteries often spend long lay-up periods being abused, namely not being left charged. So its just not worth buying the most expensive batteries if you envisage normal boating use for your Pilot. Standard heavy duty electrolyte top-up or maintenance-free batteries of the correct amp hours, we have found, are perfect. Just make sure they are securely fitted.
Hope that helps
Dominic and Nicola.
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Message 2 of 15
Posted by member Ian Martin on Wednesday 20 October 2004
Hi Dominic & Nicola
Thanks for your reply, you've made it sound very simple. Getting down to fundamentals, how did you wire the batteries together i.e. + to +, - to -? Also, to the 1:2:both isolator? When running the engine are both batteries charged at the same time or do you determine which one by the 1:2:both switch? I'm sorry electrics isn't one of my strong points.
Thanks Ian
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Message 1 of 15
Posted by member Ian Martin on Saturday 16 October 2004
I would be interested in hearing from any owners of Pilots who have fitted an additional 12v battery to their setup i.e. wiring/installation.I currently have a single 12v battery in place, I have a spare 12v leisure battery in garage doing nothing. I have the usual electronics, fish finder, radio, gps, nav lights, interior lights, spot light etc., all of which are 12v.
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