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Message board > Care & maintenance > FP cabin floor repair

Message 11 of 11
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Friday 8 May 2020

Hi Richard
Tried to email you but got pinged back for some reason so donít know if it got through to you.
I was asking if you had a contact number I could contact you on as I would very much like to give you a quick call.
If you would be kind enough to email me I will try and reply to it, see if it gets through.
Kind regards
Robert
sneddon_robert@hotmail.com

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Message 10 of 11
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Thursday 7 May 2020

Hi Richard
I had a read of your post at the time, very interesting indeed.
My outboard was removed in January as the drain hole in the transom needed to be replaced. As an added precaution I got the transom checked out and it was found to be sound and in good condition. The cockpit floor and hull are also nice and solid.
Thank you for your email address. Iíll get in touch.
Kind regards
Robert

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Message 9 of 11
Posted by member Richard Moynan on Thursday 7 May 2020

Hello Robert

I cautiously refer you to my recent post "Complete refurbishment of Deck and Bilges - a cautionary tale".

I would advise a check right through the underside of your deck and bilges. I have just gone through a similar process. It started at the stern end of the deck where a fishing seat had been installed without sealing. We removed it several seasons ago but the deck became soft. To cut a long story short, with the use of poor quality ply and a lack of completely sheathing in GRP, over the decades, the deterioration was universal. We found, as we cut in further forward, exactly what you found. Importantly, however, we did find that the hull and transom were very soundly built and were in very good condition
We have just completed a total rebuild of our deck and bilges from stem to stern, not using ply, but cell board which is made from recycled plastic. Its cheaper, lighter and rot roof and will last for decades. We have recorded everything including photos and I would be very happy to discuss our experiences if it is any help. We have always found our Hardy to be our ideal boat and, as a result, it justified the expense to restore her to to prime seaworthy condition.
I include my email: rmoynan@aol.com

regards Richard Moynan

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Message 8 of 11
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Thursday 7 May 2020

Hi Robert,
I am always ready and willing to help Hardy Owner's out when it comes to them doing their repairs and when it is necessary to for something that they can not able do I am on hand to do the repairs for them.I always give a 20% discount for members.

Regards

Simon

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Message 7 of 11
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Thursday 7 May 2020

Hi Simon.
Will make sure that everything is feathered back so I get a good repair and finished off properly.
Your advice is very much appreciated as always.
Thank you
Robert

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Message 6 of 11
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Thursday 7 May 2020

Hi Robert,
You will need to use 600g CSM to do the repair, you will need grind back from the area of the removed material about 6 to 9 inches in circular shape. the edge s to fan out from the centre in a so that the inside edge is thinned nothing and the outside edge is the same level as the surrounding area. So that when the repair is finished you will be left with an invisible repair. Then you will need flow coat the whole area back to the same condition as the rest of the boat.

Regards

Simon

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Message 5 of 11
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Wednesday 6 May 2020

Hi Simon
Thank you very much for your valued experience and advice.
Started on the upstand today and getting the old rotten wood removed.
Regarding the CSM, could you suggest what weight of material would be appropriate.
Kind regards
Robert.

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Message 4 of 11
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Tuesday 5 May 2020

Hi Robert,
The repair will be okay as far as you glass up the area with the same amount of CSM and feather the edges to get good bonding with the surrounding area.

Regards
Simon Papendick

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Message 3 of 11
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Tuesday 5 May 2020

Hi Simon
Thank you very much for the information. I will definitely fit an inspection hatch in the cabin floor at the aft end.
Regarding the repair to the forward upstand I trust my intention to cut a section of the fibreglass out and renew the rotten wood with marine ply and then glassing back over will be an acceptable repair.
Kind regards
Robert

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Message 2 of 11
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Tuesday 5 May 2020

Hi Robert,

Having worked at Hardy Marine during the time your boat was build, the reason that the bit of upstand that makes up the front of the bunk is not glassed over is because of the following reason, The bunk fronts and sides are made up as one section and then placed in the boat. As is the floor as this is all part of the same section, it is glassed into the hull with a spray glassing machine and then rolled over with large rollers. That is why none of the undersides are glassed over. Owners over the years have remove the table bases which are screwed into the floor to ensure that there is no water trapped under the floor and if there is any remove it with a small hand pump, other owners have remove the table base over the winter to let air circulate under the floor. The floor in the cockpit is glassed in the same way as the cabin floor. So fitting an inspection hatch in the aft end of the cockpit floor is also a good idea as you can inspect that area as well.

Regards

Simon Papendick
Former Hardy Marine Employee 1983 to 1990

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Message 1 of 11
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Monday 4 May 2020

* Hello everyone
Found some sponginess at the front end of my family pilot cabin floor so did a bit of investigation. Cut out a piece of flooring and found part of the wooden floor was soft and rotten. This in itself will be easy enough to replace however looking closer I discovered that the wood now exposed at the base of the forward support which is in the bilge was also rotten. I was quite surprised that this was not glasses over.
Anyway my intentions are to cut away some of the fibreglass to expose more of the wood with the intentions of cutting out the soft material, epoxying in some replacement marine ply and rebuilding before moving onto the floor repair.
Any guidance would be very much appreciated. Photo attached.
Thank you
Robert

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