Message 7 of 7
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Wednesday 20 April 2016

Hi Clive. Yes that's the stuff. I paid about £19 for my 250 ml tub delivered through eBay. Just type in Lanoguard grease into an eBay search and you will see it. I must say I've used it for about 4 years now and it's really good. It says a little goes a long way but I probably put it on heavier than need be. I just like to make sure its well coated. When you open the tub it looks like a solid green grease. Kind regards Robert.

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Message 5 of 7
Posted by member Robert Sneddon on Sunday 17 April 2016

Hi Rob Just thought I would add a little information about keeping the marine growth off after you have painted. I run my pilot with a Suzuki 70 DF. Every season I cover the section of my outboard bracket and tilt mechanism that is underwater with a good coating of Lanoguard Lanolin grease. Just warm the tub up in some hot water and paint it on. Getting it into all the little spaces. I also bought some in a spray that allows me to get some into the hard to reach places. I keep my boat afloat all season and apart from some determined baby mussels does a great job. Safe to use, easy to put on and take off if need be. 250ml tub is enough. Kind regards Robert.

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Message 3 of 7
Posted by member Clive Ffitch on Thursday 14 April 2016

Hi Rob, The tilt mechanism on your Mariner looks just like ours did. We have a Mariner 75 on Adele and after a good clean up and scrape off of all the offending dried out marine growths, I masked off all areas that I wanted to protect with masking tape and plastic bags, and used Mercury/Mariner Quicksilver "Phantom Black" enamel spray paint - high gloss and quick drying, and intended specifically for outboard legs and stern-drives. I did not use any primer, and after doing this for two seasons (not so much treatment needed the second time around) the results still seem pretty good. We also spray with Quicksilver "Corrosion Guard" before launching out to the mooring. It is also recommended to spray Corrosion Guard periodically through the season as well which we haven't as yet done. We will be using the same method again this year, with perhaps periodic additional corrosion guarding. Some people seem to prime and antifoul with special outboard leg antifouling paint, but we have not gone down that route yet - our outboard is left tilted up when on the mooring. However with our trim tab rams, I primed these with antifouling primer, and then antifouled with the normal stuff - in our case Hempel Tiger Extra. On the subject of tilt mechanisms, ours turned out to have an internally corroded tilt tube that caused eventual near seizure, without a little human assistance to raise it - most likely due to poor lubrication in previous years by previous engine owner, and put initially down to a poor battery. Keeping the tilt tube well greased is just as important as looking after the tilt ram itself. However horrible the state of the electric tilt and ram down there in the water seems to be though, they do seem to be pretty well sealed (big touch wood!), providing they are kept clean, painted and protected, and don't become home to too many baby mussels! Good luck whichever method you choose! Clive

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Message 1 of 7
Posted by member Rob on Wednesday 13 April 2016

Hello all When my boat was lifted out of the water I noticed the tilt mechanism was very rusty. I have a picture on this post prior to rust treatment and one on my next post after treatment. I am just asking if someone knows the best primer and best paint to use after my rust treatment. The engine is a Mariner 50hp, four stroke, bigfoot. Thanks Rob

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