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Message 23 of 23
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Sunday 19 January 2020

Hi Rod,

I am not sure you can still get these it is a long time since any Hardy was fitted with them, However, I would look in a Holt Allen catalogue because similar rings were used on dinghies I believe to guide ropes through. Also you could look at getting a rubber gaiter that would cover the whole area of the hole and make it more water proof.


Simon Papendick

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Message 22 of 23
Posted by member Rod Bisset on Sunday 19 January 2020

* Excellent, thanks for the response. Can you advise me what the white circular plastic thing that protects the edges of the hole contains wires and hose for the outboard is called? Mine is crumbling and I need the vocabulary to order/find a replacement

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Message 21 of 23
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Saturday 18 January 2020

Hi Roderick,
I used to work for Hardy Marine during the 1980's and we used to use 3mm Cord on the aft end as well as the front parts. We tensioned the rope fender with a trailer strap until it was very tied and then put the cord between the U Bolt and the eye on the end of the rope fender, Normally six runs between the U Bolt and the eye at the end of the rope fender and the tie it off. That way it was under tension and stayed into position.

Simon Papendick
Fromer Hardy Marine Employee 1983-1990

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Message 20 of 23
Posted by member Roderick Bisset on Friday 17 January 2020

* I have taken your advice and purchased the cord for the front sections of our rope strake, incidentally there is an old edition of the HOC magazine that had an excellent diagram of what is needed. The cord I have chosen is a high-tech Marlow Dyneema. The tensioning at the stern is provided by 2 turnbuckles - somehow the previous owner has added a shackle which means you cannot get enough tension - looking at the picture I can see the turnbuckle clasp cannot stretch round the strake eye - what alternatives are there here?

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Message 19 of 23
Posted by member Hardy Editor on Monday 8 July 2019

Ahoy Roderick,
The coir rope fender is held in place both by tension and also the lace eye points fitted towards the bow. I'm not going to lie to you - it is a fiddly job, because you need to separate the strands of the rope at each of the eye points in order to pass the cord through and around the wire heart at the centre of the rope, then through each eye in turn before tying them off. I used a small flat screw driver to begin the separation of the strands (traditionally done using a tool called a Swedish Fid) and then bit by bit fed the cord through until I could begin to see it on the underside, then with some pliers pulled it through and secured it. Take care not to damage those strands though. You just need to separate them slightly and patiently poke the cord through. I used those huge electrical ties to support the fender whilst I was fitting it, as that way you can attach the rope loosely from the stanchions in order to get it roughly in position. I did the same at the stern until I was happy with the tensioning. Lace or shackle at the stern. Once on, the rope sits neatly on the wooden strake that runs beneath it and the little lip at the bow and the tension does the rest.
You can use cable ties in an emergency but as you have just found out they will perish and let you down long term. The cord is the traditional way to do it, but take your time, because it is a job you just cannot rush. Good luck. Marie - HOC Editor

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Message 18 of 23
Posted by member Roderick on Sunday 7 July 2019

* Just bought my Family Pilot today and marshalled her from Shoreham, around a rough Selsey Bill back to Southampton. Maiden voyage. Arrived at marina to find the rope strake slumped after most of the cable ties broke. After reading this thread, I understand 3mm nylon cord is used to tie them round the core. My question is, you have series of hols behind the strake - how does the cord go though them? I donít get it? (I wish we had an HoC Youtube channel where we could see the answers)

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Message 17 of 23
Posted by member robert sneddon on Thursday 24 November 2016

Hi all Just to add to Clive's comment. I changed my rope fender a couple of years ago. Rope Services UK. Type cheaper rope fender into the search and you will find lots of info. My suppliers details are on message number 28. Great service, just sent off the wire core and the new rope arrived ready to fit. Kind regards, Robert.

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Message 16 of 23
Posted by member David Freeman on Thursday 24 November 2016

Sorry cannot attach a pdf but happy to send it to you

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Message 15 of 23
Posted by member David Freeman on Thursday 24 November 2016

I got this from Hardy when I bought a replacement rope fender makes it simplistic but does instructions work except use cable ties, much easier and more secure.

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Message 14 of 23
Posted by member Clive Ffitch on Sunday 20 November 2016

Hi Andy, Check out the earlier topic "Cheaper rope fender" - lots of info and prices that may help. Not sure how the length of fender rope would vary for a Hardy 21 Motor Sailer against a 20ft Pilot though - would a "standard" Pilot version fit if price is an issue against any added cost of a 21ft MS version? Good luck with the search! Clive

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Message 13 of 23
Posted by member Trevor on Sunday 20 November 2016

Hi Tony, Fortunately I have a near new coir fender and I am trying to look after it. I have washed it with fresh water and a little Fairy liquid. It,s dried very well but I have enquired how to preserve it. Most say just wash it in fresh water but surely there must a preserver for the boat that spends its life on the water?

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Message 12 of 23
Posted by member tony on Sunday 20 November 2016

Hi Andy (and others!), I reckon that this is one of the most discussed topics on the forum. We are in the same position with our Mariner. I took it off, hoping that I might be able to turn it inside out, but the back is bad too. I got a quote from Chatham rope makers and have asked Rope services UK if they can quote. In a earlier post I remember someone had found a place in N. Ireland to supply. Personally I don't mind if its man made rope instead of coir, might last longer especially as there doesn't seem a consensus on anyway to preserve or proof the natural fibre. Seems like an ideal item for the HOC to find a source and negotiate a discount. I'll keep you posted of progress, Tony

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Message 11 of 23
Posted by member andy matthews on Saturday 19 November 2016

Can anyone help? I have a Hardy 21 MS (1985) with a frayed and tired rope fender in need of replacement. What are my options for suppliers and cost implications? Thank you! Regards, Andy Matthews

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Message 10 of 23
Posted by member JOHN kEATING on Friday 22 February 2013

Nicholas, Sorry for the delay. The tape is vinyl facing on a fibreglass backing with a heavy adhesive attached. Makes hosing off drying salt on return to the marina easy and no holes on the hull. John Keating.

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Message 9 of 23
Posted by member Nicholas Duffin on Wednesday 30 January 2013

How did you attach the strip? Is it plastic or rubber and what colour? It sounds a good idea. Regards Nicholas

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Message 8 of 23
Posted by member JOHN kEATING on Thursday 24 January 2013

Hi My pride and joy a Hardy Bosun ;Duchess ii now over 3 years in my possession had a problem of leaks into the cabin. I removed the coir rope surround to discover a series of holes approx 50cm apart used to secure the rope with wire ties. This was the water inlet right around the hull. I filled all theholes and discarded the rope ,and covered the entire area with a 20 cm deepdecorative strip used on Sea Ray boats , This solved all my problems and have a much admired boat . To use an Equine term i have a Gelded Hardy20.

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Message 7 of 23
Posted by member Dominic And Nicola on Saturday 6 August 2011

Hi Chris The coir fender rope, at least that supplied by Hardy Marine directly, comes complete with an integral plastic sleeved stainless wire. I'm afraid we have bitten the bullet two times now and gone for the for the Hardy version, simply to reduce the hassle. If you trawl this forum you will find various attempts at alternatives to the Hardy shelf item, even synthetic rope. Call me old school but the Pilot was designed with a traditional coir rope in mind. Ruins the lines without an authentic one, I feel. No treatment neccessary. Again various ideas over the years have been voiced on the forum on this matter. Fact is, treatments all wash off with regular sea/river use, sun bleaching and/or rain. Moss growth especially around the deck scuppers is a problem when storing ashore & outside. Expect the coir to slowly rot in time. It has a finite life. Ours have averaged approx 8-ish years a fender. Hope this helps Dominic and Nicola.

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Message 6 of 23
Posted by guest Chris Manning on Tuesday 26 July 2011

I have just contacted Hardy about a new coir rope fender for my Pilot 20 (Scorpion). The current price is £447.72 inc VAT + £23.76 delivery (presumably by a very tangled up DHL courier?). Does anyone have info about potential cheaper coir rope? Please forgive my naivety, but does the wire have to be passed through the rope, or does it come as an integral component? They also do not recommend any form of treatment for the rope, since it is a 'natural product' (with a suitably 'natural' price?!). Cheers Chris

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Message 5 of 23
Posted by guest Nigel Stevens on Saturday 9 April 2011

Cable ties are a good short term fix but they harden and give way after a couple of seasons. When fitting, yet a few mates to offer up the new fender and tighten it up with a spanish windlass ( bit of wood and rope loop. Mark the fixing positions with cable ties, lay the fender on the floor, open the lay of the rope with a large marlin spike or huge screwdriver at the marks. I wouldn't try unwinding as the tension on the lay goes to pot. Use the best quality nylon cord you can find and and using the wire hook described above, feed two turns of cord around the hawser on the inside of the rope and move the tails to the inside face that will touch the gunwhale. When you've done them all offer up the fender and check the positions of your cords. I got best results by doing up bow and then both stern quarters and then a few in the middle sections without tightening. Check the tension before tightening up the cords. This is very hard work and a good pair of gloves, a pair of pliers and a screwdriver is needed to get the right tension on the cord. Make sure that whatever is your chosen knot you put in an additional locking turn before you trim the ends. leave a reasonable tail so that you can dress it into the lay after you have finished. I have tried lots of other ways of fixing these things but to my mind the cord gives the most aesthetic and durable finish .... which is why I guess Hardy chose it in the first place. Hope this is of some use regards Nigel

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Message 4 of 23
Posted by guest Peterboo on Monday 20 December 2010

http://ansterboats.myfreeforum.org/about289.html look here mine kept on slicing through the ties and got fed up sorting it so l tried to be clever will let you know later if l can be smug about it

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Message 3 of 23
Posted by member Mark on Sunday 18 April 2010

Dave Many thanks for getting back will give it a go this week Kind regards Mark

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Message 2 of 23
Posted by guest Dave Goad on Thursday 15 April 2010

You have to 'Untwist' the rope fender. Inside you will see a plastic coated wire core. You tie the cord around this and onto the small D-hook mounted onto the hull.

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Message 1 of 23
Posted by member Mark on Monday 12 April 2010

the rope fender requires refitting around the bow how do,s the 3mm cord fix to the fender, tried to sort it but but really confused ,any info wellcome . Many Thanks Mark

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