Message 24 of 24
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Monday 28 February 2022

Hi,
Fitting instructions from Seals Direct. Hope this helps you get started.

The extruded rubber section has 3 recesses. One for the window, one for the
panel and the third for a filler strip, which is used to lock the rubber seal against
the window and the panel to ensure a good weatherproof fit. It is necessary to
have the correct size of seal and this is can be determined from the window and
panel thickness.

To remove the old window:
Locate the ends of the filler strip and hook them out. Then remove the strip all of
the way around. Push the window firmly on the middle and it should come out of
the rubber quite easily. Be careful not to break the window, as you may need it
for a template for a new one. Remove the rubber seal from the panel and clean
the area where the seal has been.

Fitting the new seal:
Fit the rubber seal around the aperture pushing it well into the corners to
determine the length required. Cut the rubber approx. 25mm over length with
good square joints to make a really tight butt joint. Remove the seal and apply a
small bead of silicone sealant into the panel groove and then refit the rubber
around the aperture, ensuring that the butt joint is at the top.

With the rubber in place apply a small bead of silicone into the window groove.
Push the window into the rubber seal at the bottom. Using the glazing tool work
the lip of the rubber over the edge of the window.

To fit the filler strip:
Feed it through the eye of the glazing tool and then work it
into the channel in the rubber seal. Use plenty of lubricant to ease fitment. Start
with the joint at the bottom (opposite that of the rubber section). Be careful not
to stretch the filler strip as you go, otherwise it will shrink back at a later date.
Cut the end with a few millimetres of overlap and push it into the groove so that
it butts the other end with a tight joint.

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Message 22 of 24
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Thursday 22 April 2021

Completed replacement cabin window rubbers, filler strip and acrylic panels.

Couple of tools needed to make things easier; glazing tool, cutting tool and plenty of patience. A bit tricky at first but you soon get the hang of it.

Some tips:
1) Placing window rubbers in tub of warm water beforehand makes it more pliable and easier to fit.
2) Rubber joint at top in centre. I found it easier to fit from cabin side as more room. Once fully knocked into place cut joint about 5mm longer.
3) Run finger along inside of gazing channel with washing up liquid before fitting acrylic window to make easier.
4) Use glazing tool for filler stip with joint to bottom. Add 5mm approx before joining as it shrinks back after fitting.

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Message 20 of 24
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Sunday 18 April 2021

Thanks Kenny,
that diagram helps.
Were leaving the windows now and will do them when we repce the headlining .

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Message 18 of 24
Posted by member Kenny Clark on Saturday 10 April 2021

Window rubber section WR1513 dimensions. Would always measure own cabin GRP, acrylic thickness matches.

Not replacing wheelhouse window seals - would imagine rubber section would be different as glazed windows rather than acrylic.

Kenny

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Message 16 of 24
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Wednesday 24 March 2021

Thank you Jonathan
Exactly what I needed :)

One of the chaps who does boat repairs and small jobs in our marina said he won't touch them, too fiddly!

Caroline

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Message 14 of 24
Posted by member Caroline Munro on Wednesday 24 March 2021

Hello
We are just about to replace our leaking seals in our cabin. Taking advice from this thread, I'm assuming the window is 5mm and I will get an additional 45mm length, buy 'the fitting tool' and warm them up prior to fitting, thanks Simon Papendick.
I have had a look on the seals direct website but I'm not sure what to order.. there seems to be such a choice. Do any of you have a list?
Dummy guide for buying seals

I don't want to be a numpty and contact seals direct and say I have a Hardy 20 boat .. what do I need? Or do I?

Caroline & Lorraine

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Message 12 of 24
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Friday 21 February 2020

Hi Robert,
Seals direct are the company to go to as this is where I go to for the window rubber when I have done window replacement jobs. The cost is reasonable as well.
Regards
Simon Papendick

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Message 10 of 24
Posted by member Simon Papendick on Friday 21 February 2020

Hi Robert

When your boat was build we used a thickness cutter to get the window edge the same thickness all the way around windows. it was set at 5 mm. Just remember that the rubber profile is offset not the in line profile. As the window glass is larger than the window hole in the superstructure. When you replace them they are sealed with a non curing sealant as well. The joint in the rubber is at the bottom along the longest run on the cabin windows and the insert is at the top in the middle of the longest run. Remember that the rubber as to be longer than the length around the window by about 45 mm to ensure in goes into the curves otherwise you end up with the rubber being too short and having to start again. A trick we used when building the boats was to warm the rubber up a little in some warm water as it was easier to put in.
If you have any questions you can contact me on my works phone 07585506960.

Regards

Simon Papendick
Former Hardy Marine employee 1983 --1990

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Message 8 of 24
Posted by member Roy Procter on Thursday 3 January 2013

I note various comments concerning window seals for a Pilot 20. I also note that www.sealsdirect.co.uk are a source of supply and have a vast selection of seals. In 1997 Ian Bradshaw reported that he had paid for a new set of dies as a special moulding was required that was not a stock size. What I really want to know is the reference number for the appropriate seal. My boat is a 1994 Family Pilot. Any useful info to cure a small leak in one corner, at least that it where it appears inside! would be appreciated. Roy Procter.

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Message 6 of 24
Posted by member Roger Piper on Tuesday 28 April 2009

Your best course of action is to find a localwindscreen/glass specialist and ask him to quote for the job.When you take the existing perspex in, it's normally about 5 or 6 mm, he will copy them and suply the correct length/type of seal and sealant. Make sure you mark which windows they came out of as the sizes vary slightly. You should be able to borrow or hire the tool to refit the windows, see my comments in previous above. Good luck, be patient, do it in warm weather.

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Message 4 of 24
Posted by member Leroy Beresford on Wednesday 13 August 2008

was lucky to pick up a Hardy 20 on the second hand market,is their any way that i can find out year of make ?ie,are there any markings or numbers anywhere on the hull?

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Message 2 of 24
Posted by member Philip Mckee on Tuesday 13 November 2007

I have just bought an '83 Pilot 20 . Some damp spots below a few of the fixed windows. What is the best solution? New seals or pack existing seals with flexible mastic and refit. If the latter is a special tool required?

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